Back in the Saddle — First trip in a while

(Note: Orginally posted by author on trailjournals.com 5/3/2004)

Two days ’til we leave for Luray, VA. Where is Luray you ask? Damned if I know. West of Shenandoah National Park I think–a mere 3.5 hours WSW of Wilmington, DE. My hiking pal Dave (trail name not known yet) and I will be catching an afternoon Phillies game then heading out to a 1-star rated motel in Luray to spend the night most likely surrounded by grungy truckers, other hikers and assorted pay by-the-hour “professionals” named Wanda wearing short skirts. After that the plan is to catch a quick breakfast at the local greasy spoon at the crack of dawn then hit the trail early.

I have my pack, sleeping bag and some accessories. I still need to pack clothes, buy food, and also purchase a pair of boots. I know what you’re thinking…new boots + 30-mile hike = blisters from hell. Yeah, I know, and I realize the stupidity in this, but I’m doing it anyway.

DAY 1:  Well Come

After going to a Phillies game Dave and I met in Wilmington and drove what was supposed to have been 3.5 hours to Luray, VA. However, the navigator (your’s truly) led us on a wild goose chase through western VA, taking us a half hour in the wrong direction off I-66.

We finally arrived here at the Budget Inn in Luray. It’s quaint, to say the least. I smell something weird,

though it could just be my boots. The hot water takes exactly 4.3 minutes to heat up and I’m pretty sure my bed is coin-operated. The little old Indian lady–Mrs. Patel–was sweet and helpful in getting us a room. She seemed happy to see two fairly normal people checking in. She does need help with her English, though. I took a pic of the “Welcome” (or in this case, “Well Come”) placard on the front desk with my phone.

I just washed my face with some harsh motel soap and now I’m getting sleepy. Oh wait, “Aqua Teen Hunger Force” is on Cartoon Network. Ok, gotta watch that then it’s off to bed.

Day 2:  Romanian Chicks & Kevin Pollack’s Knob

Origin: Fisher’s Gap

Destination: Jewell Hollow/Mary’s Rock

Total miles: 11.5

After a quick breakfast at the local, and only, greasy spoon, Dave (trailname: “Suvid”) and I (trailname: “Meatball”) drove to Shenandoah National Park’s HQ for our backcountry camping permits, then took Skyline Drive to Big Meadows to pick up some last-minute gear, which for me included an awesome floppy bucket hat and some beef jerky. Dave flirted hard core with a Romanian chick without a nametag but whom we call Svetasha.

View of the Shendoah Valley after the storm

Drove to Fisher’s Gap and parked. Put the packs on. WAY too heavy. Started shedding gear: cards, books, flask of J.D. all had to go. We snapped a few pics then intercepted the Appalachian Trail just below the overlook and headed on our way. The first few hundred yards were easy. Then we started uphill. Ouch. 40 lbs on your back is a lot. My calves hurt real bad, but I didn’t complain and kept on truckin’ right behind Dave.

We knew we’d eventually get caught in a thunderstorm since we could see them building across the valley most of the day, so we kept the pace brisk. A quick stop for lunch at Pollock’s Knob overlook, which we then renamed Kevin Pollack’s Knob as a joke. It stuck, and the perverted jokes let fly. “Wow, we just mounted Kevin Pollack’s Knob!”, etc. We need help.

The thunderstorm from hell hit us, but luckily Dave led us to a picnic pavilion atop the Pinnacles Overlook. It was a nasty storm (Note: we later heard it spawned a tornado that tore up an entire town up the road). Just before the storm hit we met Flyin’ Brian and Silvergirl, two A.T. thru hikers. Flyin’ Brian happens to be a bit of a hiking celebrity ’cause he’s the only person to have hiked the Triple Crown in one year (the A.T., Continental Divide Trail, Pacific Crest Trail.) He’s been in People Magazine, Backpacker, Outdoor, etc. and is writing a book about his experience. He and Suvid will meet in PA next month for an interview.

After the storm we started off for Jewell Hollow, our first scheduled stop. About a half mile out, Dave realized he forgot his trekking poles at the pavilion, so I got a chance to enjoy a view of the valley aftter the storm in the fading daylight. No words to describe it. It’s what hiking’s all about to me.

Met back up with Dave and trudged up Mary’s rock for what seemed like forever. We’re now camped out atop the mountain somewhere between some huge boulders, in prime bear territory. It’s foggy and damp and dark out. Spooky. We hung our packs in a tree 50 yds. away so we shouldn’t be getting any unwelcome visitors tonight. Here’s hoping. It’s windy and there’s strange sounds everywhere around. I’m going to try to sleep, but I won’t be surprised if I’m wide-eyed all night.

Didn’t sleep much at all for two reasons: 1. My body hurt and I was sleeping on hard ground. 2. I woke up after every little twig snap in the breeze. I am quite certain we got visited by something large and hairy last night. I managed to drift off but was awakened by footsteps then sniffing noises just inches from my head on the outside of the tent. I lay motionless and would have peed my pants had I not been so dehydrated.

Day 3:  Old Rag & Bambi’s Fornicator

Origin: Jewell Hollow/Mary’s Rock

Destination: Old Rag Summit

Total miles: 11.0

Packed up camp and headed out around 7:30AM for Pinnacles parking area. Took a few pics of Old Rag in the distance, then headed for it. The first 5 miles or so were steep downhill or level, and it seems I take the lead in this type of terrain. Dave’s like a horse on the uphill, and I can’t keep up. Like Flyin’ Brian said, he’s got the horsepower, I’ve got the speed.

Got to Old Rag (finally), cooked up some ramen for lunch, then headed for the summit, 2.6 miles straight up. We met

up with a foursome of age-varied dudes from Ohio on the way up. Just when we thought we were near the top

Suvid (dpidgeon.wordpress.com) atop Old Rag

we came upon a boulder field 1 mile long and 800 feet high. There we were, packs 40 lbs. each, climbing (and I mean climbing, not hiking) up boulders the size of houses, over crevices, through holes and thin passageways. FUN AS HELL! I LOVED IT! People thought we were crazy climbing it with our packs but so what…it was a blast! After resting at the top (which we thought we would never get to), we headed for the base on the other side of the mountain. Saw our buddies again at Bird’s Nest shelter. They asked us to camp with them but we needed to get to a spring at the bottom so we declined.

We’re at Old Rag shelter now, in the middle of East Jesus somewhere, and we just found out Dave’s water filter broke. Now we have to boil water in order to drink it. We’re thinking of changing plans to avoid White Oak Canyon tomorrow because we probably won’t have enough water. We set up camp about 100 yds behind the shelter to avoid any furry things bothering us and hung our food in a tree again. Bambi and her fornicator (as Dave referred to him) keep coming up to say hi. They’re tame which means someone’s been feeding them, which is not good. Oh well, they’re cute.

Bedtime now. Hope we don’t hear anything unusual tonight. Oh yeah, my tent poles broke so Dave and I are sharing a tent tonight. Smells like a farm in here. ‘Night!

Day 4:  When in doubt, hitchhike.  With a park ranger?

Origin: Old Rag

Destination: Fisher’s Gap

Total miles: 10.8

We woke early, refreshed. Lots of sleep, no bear attacks though Yogi did visit the shelter to eat our crumbs. My back, legs, ankles, achilles, shins, and face hurt.

First 3 miles was downhill, so I led, then we got to Cedar Run Falls, which is the alternate route up the canyon. White Oak Canyon is way too difficult to do without water. We stopped and boiled about 1.25 qts. of water just before the incline started. The falls are pretty, but the grade is steep and it was 90 degrees and humid. Needless to say, the 3 mile hike up the 2,000 ft. canyon was HARD as Dave led the charge. We stopped to take a dip in the icy water a few times to cool off but the relief didn’t last too long. I finally bit the bullet and drank straight from the stream. So far so good. We finally made it to the top, dehydrated and exhausted. Rather than hike along the A.T. 5 miles back to our car, I flagged down a park ranger along Skyline Drive and we got a ride. Oh well.

We did that. In cotton!

Another stop at Big Meadows to get some Vitamin Water (“Revive” is my favorite), and for Dave to say his proper goodbyes to Svetasha (real name Danielle), got gas, then off we went. Fast food never tasted so good and my bed has never felt so soft. Oh yeah, the shower…the shower was grrrreeaaat.

Must….sleep.

Total trip miles: 33.30